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Jewellery:
Jewellery
or jewelry is a form of personal adornment,manifesting itself as
necklaces,rings,brooches,earrings and bracelets.Jewellery may be made
from any material,usually gemstones,precious metals or shells.Factors
affecting the choice of materials include cultural differences and the
availability of the materials.Jewellery may be appreciated because of
its material properties,its patterns or for meaningful symbols.Jewellery
differs from other items of personal adornment in that it has no other
purpose than to look appealing.Items such as belts and handbags are
considered to be accessories rather than jewellery.
The word jewellery is derived from the word jewel,which was Anglicised
from the Old French "jouel" circa the 13th century.Further tracing leads
back to the Latin word "jocale", meaning plaything. Jewellery is one of
the oldest forms of body adornment;recently-found 100,000-year-old beads
made from Nassarius shells are thought to be the oldest known jewellery.
Jewellery is sometimes regarded as a way of showing wealth and might
also possess some minimal functionality,such as holding a garment
together or keeping hair in place. It has from very early times been
regarded as a form of personal adornment.The first pieces of jewellery
were made from natural materials, such as bone, animal teeth, shell,wood
and carved stone.Some jewellery throughout the ages may have
specifically been as an indication of a social group. More exotic
jewellery is often for wealthier people,with its rarity increasing its
value. Due to its personal nature and its indication of social
class,some cultures established traditions of burying the dead with
their jewellery.
Jewellery has been made to adorn nearly every body part,from hairpins to
toe rings and many more types of jewellery.While traditional jewellery
is usually made with gemstones and precious metals, such as silver or
gold,there is also a growing demand for art jewellery where design and
creativity is prized above material value. In addition,there is the less
costly costume jewellery,made from lower value materials and often mass-produced.Other
variations include wire sculpture (wrap) jewellery,using anything from
base metal wire with rock tumbled stone to precious metals and precious
gemstones.

Form and
function:
Jewellery has been used for a number of
reasons:
* Currency, wealth display and storage,
* Functional use
* Symbolism
* Protection
* Artistic display
Most cultures have at some point had a practice of keeping large amounts
of wealth stored in the form of jewellery. Numerous cultures move
wedding dowries in the form of jewellery, or create jewellery as a means
to store or display coins. Alternatively, jewellery has been used as a
currency or trade good; an example being the use of slave beads.
Many items of jewellery, such as brooches and buckles originated as
purely functional items, but evolved into decorative items as their
functional requirement diminished.
Jewellery can also be symbolic of group membership, as in the case of
the Christian crucifix or Jewish Star of David, or of status, as in the
case of chains of office, or the Western practice of married people
wearing a wedding ring.
Wearing of amulets and devotional medals to provide protection or ward
off evil is common in some cultures; these may take the form of symbols
(such as the ankh), stones, plants, animals, body parts (such as the
Khamsa), or glyphs (such as stylised versions of the Throne Verse in
Islamic art).
Although artistic display has clearly been a function of jewellery from
the very beginning, the other roles described above tended to take
primacy.It was only in the late 19th century, with the work of such
masters as Peter Carl Fabergé and René Lalique, that art began to take
primacy over function and wealth.This trend has continued into modern
times, expanded upon by artists such as Robert Lee Morris, Ed Levin, and
Alberto Repossi.
Materials and methods:
In
creating jewellery, gemstones, coins, or other precious items are often
used, and they are typically set into precious metals. Alloys of nearly
every metal known have been encountered in jewellery - bronze, for
example, was common in Roman times. Modern fine jewellery usually
includes gold, white gold, platinum, palladium, titanium or silver. Most
American and European gold jewellery is made of an alloy of gold, the
purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a number followed by
the letter K. American gold jewellery must be of at least 10K purity
(41.7% pure gold), (though in the UK the number is 9K (37.5% pure gold)
and is typically found up to 18K (75% pure gold). Higher purity levels
are less common with alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure gold), and 24 K (99.9%
pure gold) being considered too soft for jewellery use in America and
Europe. These high purity alloys, however, are widely used across Asia,
the Middle East and Africa.[citation needed] Platinum alloys range from
900 (90% pure) to 950 (95.0% pure). The silver used in jewellery is
usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine silver. In costume jewellery,
stainless steel findings are sometimes used.
Other commonly used materials include glass, such as fused-glass or
enamel; wood, often carved or turned; shells and other natural animal
substances such as bone and ivory; natural clay; polymer clay; and even
plastics. Hemp and other twines have been used as well to create
jewellery that has more of a natural feel. However, any inclusion of
lead or lead solder will cause an English Assay office (the building
which gives English jewellery its stamp of approval, the Hallmark) to
destroy the piece.
Beads are frequently used in jewellery. These may be made of glass,
gemstones, metal, wood, shells, clay and polymer clay. Beaded jewellery
commonly encompasses necklaces, bracelets, earrings, belts and rings.
Beads may be large or small; the smallest type of beads used are known
as seed beads, these are the beads used for the "woven" style of beaded
jewellery. Another use of seed beads is an embroidery technique where
seed beads are sewn onto fabric backings to create broad collar neck
pieces and beaded bracelets. Bead embroidery, a popular type of handwork
during the Victorian era is enjoying a renaissance in modern jewellery
making. Beading, or beadwork, is also very popular in many African
cultures.
Advanced glass and glass beadmaking techniques by Murano and Venetian
glassmasters developed crystalline glass, enamelled glass (smalto),
glass with threads of gold (goldstone), multicoloured glass (millefiori),
milk-glass (lattimo) and imitation gemstones made of glass.[citation
needed] As early as the 13th century, Murano glass and Murano beads were
popular.
Silversmiths, goldsmiths, and lapidaries methods include forging,
casting, soldering or welding, cutting, carving and "cold-joining"
(using adhesives, staples and rivets to assemble parts). |